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Trip report: Salzburg to the Adriatic Coast on the Alpe Adria.
In mid-June 2024, I landed in Salzburg, Austria, to ride one of Europe’s most popular long-distance cycle routes – the Alpe Adria Cycle Path. Over the next six days, I would ride 375 kilometres southwards, across the Alps and the Friuli plains of northern Italy to the lagoon town of Grado on the Adriatic coast. Here’s a summary of my Salzburg to the Adriatic Cycling Holiday experience.
I was met at the hotel by the local representative, and after the bike handover and a brief welcome meeting, I spent the rest of the afternoon and evening exploring Salzburg. The charming old city is quite compact and easy to explore on foot. I ‘carbed-up’ with a Wiener Schnitzel and pommes frites in preparation for the next day’s ride, excited for the adventure ahead.
I left my suitcase with reception for the luggage van to pick up later, selected the day’s route on the handy navigation app on my phone, and set off.
The first day’s ride to St. Johann im Pongau is quite long but relatively easy, with just two short climbs of any note. I found the scenery to be truly breathtaking throughout the ride. Awe-inspiring alpine peaks and verdant green valleys were framed by an azure blue sky. For the first 16km, the route follows an idyllic cycle path alongside the Salzach river. In the charming little medieval town of Hallein, I stopped for a coffee and a slice of apple strudel (this treat is mandatory for me during any cycle ride in Austria). Back in the saddle, the impressive limestone peaks of the Hochkönig Alps provided a stunning backdrop to my ride as I followed a network of rural country lanes to the town of Golling.
I then took on the relatively short, but noticeable climb over Pass Lueg, shortly followed by a second climb up towards Hohenwerfen Castle. The castle is quite something, not least for the stunning views afforded from its lofty position – a cable car ride whisks you up to its battlements if you want a closer look.
After these exertions, it was lovely to freewheel down to the charming town of Werfen and relax with a cold drink at a street café whilst taking in the marvellous views of the surrounding Alps. Finally, a few kilometres of easy, scenic cycling along the banks of the Salzach River delivered me to the alpine resort town of St. Johann im Pongau. A dip in the hotel’s pool revived the tired muscles before a delicious meal in the hotel’s excellent restaurant. I have no idea what St Johann’s nightlife is like; I was fast asleep by 9 p.m.
Mist and overcast skies greeted me at breakfast, so I packed my rain jacket in my pannier and set off, alongside my old friend the Salzach River. After about 5km, in the town of Schwarzach, the route left the river and headed up the flank of the valley. A steep but thankfully quite short climb gave way to a gently undulating country lane offering unimpeded, sensational views across the valley. I cycled past traditional chalet-style farmhouses, their balcony flower boxes overflowing with geraniums and petunias. Birdsong and cowbells filled the air, and I thoroughly enjoyed this 8km of cycling bliss.
A little further on, at the entrance to the Gastein Valley, I rode through the 1.5km long Klamm Tunnel. This is a shared tunnel, used by both motor vehicles and cyclists. The bike path is separated from the traffic lane by a guard rail and concrete barrier but is nevertheless still somewhat intimidating. I was glad to ride out into glorious sunshine at the other end.
Note: To avoid cycling through the tunnel, you can catch a train or take a taxi from Schwarzach, near St. Johann im Pongau, to Dorfastein in the Gastein Valley (journey time is 11 minutes). However, be aware that if you do opt for the train (or taxi), you forego the lovely ride described above, between Schwarzach and the tunnel itself.
I bought some bread, cheese, and a large tomato in a shop in Dorfagastein before enjoying a picnic in a meadow a little further up the valley whilst drinking in the marvellous alpine views. A gently ascending cycle path led me further up the Gastein valley for about 12 km. At the head of the valley lies the grand old spa town of Badgastein. The final approach to the town is steep, and I must confess to dismounting and pushing my bike up a couple of the steeper pitches. Not for the first time, I found myself casting envious glances at the e-bike riders who breezed past me, barely breaking a sweat.
In Badgastein, I stopped to admire the waterfall tumbling through the centre of the old town before pressing on to the lonely train station at the hamlet of Böckstein, some 3 km further up the valley. Here, I lined up with other cyclists, also doing the Alpe Adria, to load my bike onto the train for the short, 8.3km ride under the spine of the Alps. The trains run at 20 minutes past each hour, and the journey time is just 11 minutes. After alighting in the small town of Mallnitz, at the head of the Möll valley, I enjoyed an effortless descent to my hotel in the small alpine town of Obervellach. Over a tasty dinner and refreshing beer, I swapped tales from the trail with fellow riders regarding our Alpe Adria experiences so far.
After breakfast, a brisk tailwind helped me on my way down the stunningly beautiful Möll valley. My abiding memories of this ride are of effortless cycling through glorious alpine scenery on a gently descending and peaceful cycle path – perfection! The town of Spittal, roughly halfway along the route, was a good place to stop for lunch. From there, the route led me alongside the Drau River to the bustling town of Villach. After checking into my comfortable and modern, centrally located hotel, I went for a stroll through the bustling old-town area. I was now on the south side of the Alps, and a distinctly Mediterranean atmosphere and climate pervaded the city. I enjoyed a delicious meal in one of the open-air restaurants before enjoying some live music with a beer in the main square. Returning to my hotel, I was asleep the moment my head hit the pillow.
A five-minute ride from my hotel delivered me to Villach train station, where I waited, with numerous other Alpe Adria cyclists, for the train that would transport us over the border and up to the alpine town of Tarvisio. It is possible to cycle this section, adding another 37 km and 515 metres of climbing to today’s already quite substantial route.
The pleasant, scenic train journey takes 22 minutes, and after disembarking in Tarvisio, I paused for a coffee and slice of apple strudel whilst drinking in the incredible views of the cathedral-like Julian Alps to the south. I then mounted up and embarked on one of the most memorable days of cycling I have ever experienced.
For 50 kilometres, the Alpe-Adria cycle path follows the route of a disused railway through the breathtaking Julian Alps. The traffic-free cycle path wends its way through an unspoilt landscape, far from any major roads or towns. The only sounds were the birdsong, the tyres on the bike path, and the odd bicycle bell warning me that someone, slightly faster, was coming by. At times, it felt like I was on a private bicycle roller-coaster as I cycled through short tunnels, along galleries, and over bridges. Every now and then, I cycled through small stations, reminding me that I was in fact following the route of an old railway line. The only time I encountered any traffic was when I stopped for lunch in the pretty alpine village of Pontebba. The other fantastic thing about this amazing day’s cycling is that the route is gently descending the whole way, allowing riders to relax and concentrate on enjoying the views.
At the end of this wonderful day, I arrived in the pleasant town of Gemona del Friuli. I was in Italy, so pizza and a cold beer were, of course, the natural choice for dinner, followed by a gelato.
After yesterday’s sublime experience, I knew it would be impossible for today’s ride to maintain the same levels of awesomeness. Nevertheless, I enjoyed the gently rolling terrain that led me away from the Alps, through a pleasing agricultural landscape of farms and small villages. This region is well known for its crisp white wines, and I passed numerous wineries surrounded by seas of vineyards. A suburban bike path led me into the heart of Udine, the vibrant regional capital of Friuli-Giulia. After checking into my centrally located hotel, I went for a stroll through the beautiful historic centre. At the town’s attractive central Piazza, I enjoyed a simple but tasty meal followed by the obligatory gelato before retiring for the night.
I left Udine and followed a succession of rural lanes and paths through a peaceful agricultural landscape. I was now on the Friulian Plains, and the going was level and easy. My legs, by now well attuned to what was expected of them, ate up the kilometres. I stopped for lunch in the impressive main square of Palmanova, a historic fortified town built by the Venetian Republic in 1593. From here, the cycle path led me south towards the Adriatic. In Aquileia, I stopped to admire the beautiful basilica and remains of what was once one of the most significant cities in the Roman Empire. Mounting up for the final time, I could taste the sea air as I neared the coast. Finally, the cycle path led me the 5kms across the Marano Lagoon to the resort town of Grado – journey’s end. I checked into my hotel and then walked to the nearby beach for a late afternoon dip to celebrate completing my Alpe Adria Cycling Holiday. Grado is a vibrant, bustling little place with a huge choice of restaurants and bars to choose from.
The next morning, it was time to head for home. Trieste is the closest international airport to Grado, but because I wanted to fly back to Gatwick, I chose to fly from Venice airport instead. The journey there was actually very easy, consisting of a 25-minute bus ride from Grado to the nearby town of Cervignano del Friuli, followed by a 1-hour 15-minute train ride to Venice Mestre station, and finally a 20-minute bus ride to the airport.
In summary, I absolutely loved everything about my Salzburg to Grado Cycling Holiday on the Alpe Adria Cycle Path and can’t recommend it enough. If you're a regular cyclist with a good fitness level then you'll be absolutely fine on a regular hybrid bike but if you have any concerns then opt for an e-bike and you won't be alone as this does seem to be the most popular option on this route. The towns and villages you stay in along the way all have their own individual appeal and I enjoyed them all. It was also nice to experience the two, different cultures and cuisines of Austria and Italy in one holiday.